Friday, June 6, 2014

The Trouble with German Toothpaste



My first day in was terrifying. It was my first time traveling anywhere without a parent or guardian either by my side or waiting to greet me. It’s amazing, I think, how easy it was to transition. I’m beginning to suspect that nobody really knows what they’re doing any more than I do, that adulthood is just having enough logical reasoning to follow the person in front of you if they look like they know where they’re going.

The flight into Chicago was late, leaving me with only a few minutes to get to my plane, but I had the unfortunate experience of being directed to an area two terminals over when the plane was actually just across the way. Needless to say, the flight attendants were not happy to see me run up just after final boarding had been closed, and were especially unimpressed with my extra carryon. This was not made any easier by the fact that the woman I talked to highly overestimated her English ability.

Then, of course, the plane was forced to turn around about an hour in because the woman three seats in front of me became ill during takeoff. IVs and everything, so it looked pretty serious, although I was able to understand the doctor saying that it was a precaution because the last thing you want is to have it get worse when the plane is over water and can’t turn around. Then safety checks (mandatory for US emergency landings, one stewardess grumbled) and refueling (planes have to dump their fuel when turning around so quickly to avoid the kind of catastrophic failure that would leave our corpses charred past recognition; this is likely why we waited to turn around over the great lakes instead of any random field which could later catch on fire) which took about an hour. I’m not particularly surprised, though; I nearly passed out during takeoff and landing that first time, and I’m not particularly Ill. Whatever was going on in the cockpit, I can guarantee we were ascending and descending too quickly.

Arriving in Berlin was the worst. Everyone had missed their connecting flights, so there was much arguing, confusion, and pushing around the luggage carousel. I stood back and took it all in, content to wait until everyone else was done because having my luggage meant going out into the world. Getting a cab was no problem; I walked up to the stand towards the first car in line and the driver had the hatch open before I had decided what side to pick. Apparently they have their own system. Thank God I had written down the name of the hotel and the address; the language barrier would have been too much otherwise. I was surprised after such a long drive that my driver refused to take a larger tip; the most he was willing to accept was rounding up from 18,30€ to 20€, despite my desperately trying to throw fives at him. Inside I was greeted by two other students and had two more pull up in a cab before I could even say hello to the man at the reception desk. Apparently the other two had been on the same plane as me, which would have made getting a cab much less harrowing, but looking back on it I’m grateful that I had a chance to strike out on my own.

Once most of us were together, we walked out to get lunch. Several of the other students had arrived in the days before and were familiar with the area, so getting to the main avenues was no problem. It was a good time, though it was obvious pretty quickly that we would be having quite the lively group. I was the only one who didn’t drink; my roommate had wine, though she protests that this was because she had been in country for several days. Everyone else had beer. The lunch was ok, not excellent, and the price definitely put me off (price shock seems to be at its worst at the beginning when you have nothing to compare prices with). It was a good time, however, and being asked to quiet down by one of the other patrons (she tried Spanish before English, which surprised me) didn’t make it less so.

We returned to the hotel just after checkin time and went up to our rooms. We had been allowed in before because the luggage room was too full to accommodate our things, but this was our first chance to really look around and compare spaces with everyone else. I’m pretty sure my roommate and I ended up with the smallest of the rooms, but I’ve been in smaller, so it shouldn’t be too bad. We’ve already established that she and I won’t be in a shouting mood at the same time, so living in such close quarters shouldn’t hurt anything. Besides, I didn’t come to Berlin to sit in my room and watch German TV (which is exactly the same as American TV, down to the How I Met Your Mother reruns and annoying UPS commercials). The room is about the same size as the hotel room in the Lake District which I stayed in a few years ago, with the same peculiarly large bathroom to bedroom ratio and requirement to insert your key into the wall to turn on the electricity (apparently this also controls the electricity flowing into the refrigerator for those students who got bumped up to a suite; a few someones discovered this the hard way).

There is a desk, but I find myself propping my laptop on the windowsill overlooking the courtyard. I hadn’t understood when I began reading “A Woman in Berlin” how the author could know so many of her neighbors so well, but I have no illusions now. With the windows open (and we have yet to close them; it’s been a steady 68-75 degrees every day except Thursday morning) you can hear everything going on in the building. I hear peoples’ conversations coming from everywhere: the sound of food cooking in the apartments across the way and up one level, the twang of a banjo in the room next door, and the flush of the toilet three stories up. We’re situated just next to the door, also, so I can always hear when anyone comes or goes. It’s hard not to know your neighbors in a situation like this.

The first picture I took was of the keyboards in the IES computer lab. It’s strange how the little things are the ones that get you the most. My second picture was of three small plackards with peoples’ names on them sunk into the walkway just down from our hotel; I wasn’t sure what they were at first because I couldn’t read them, but the professor later told us that they are a sort of art project showing where Jews lived during the Holocaust and listing what happened to them after they were taken away. An interesting proposition, having them in the ground. Back home they’d almost certainly be displayed prominently on the wall for everyone to see.

Our first major assignment was to go on a scavenger hunt with an assigned partner. On the one hand having a partner assigned to you is probably a good idea: otherwise we would likely have all stuck with our roommates and failed to gel as a group. On the other hand, I think some people had a bit of trouble with it because groups were assigned without any idea of who knew the language and who did not, resulting in some groups being practically fluent between them and some… not so much. It was, at first, a pretty boring assignment. My partner and I looked up our destinations and made a point of plugging the addresses into google maps (which has been my number one resource during this whole thing) which gave us excellent directions using public transport. The trains were the easiest to figure out; google told us to get on such-and-such a line heading towards such-and-such a place, wait so many stops and get off at such-and-such a street. The busses were the stumbling block; google gave us the same kind of directions despite the fact that the outside of the busses displays the next stop on the line rather than the eventual destination. Because of this we overshot our second destination by three stops and had to wait almost :45 to get one going back the other way (it would have been quicker to walk if we hadn’t been terrified of getting lost). Eventually we found it: an old watchtower overlooking the river.

Walking back we decided to skip the bus and see if we couldn’t make it back to the main terminal we had accidentally run into before. Because of this we were able to detour into a graveyard. Anyone who’s heard me talk about Europe knows that my favorite places are graveyards; they’re so gorgeous and so old, with so much history behind them (not to mention the quiet because of the almost universal avoidance of other passersby). It wasn’t hard to convince my partner to go in, so we took a little walk through it and photographed some of the more intricate graves. I saw that there seemed to have been some overflow at some point; the back wall had been broken through and graves were out in the open on the other side, as well as a bike path that seemed very well used. It wasn’t until I started thinking about how ugly that back wall was, concrete against the fine carved stone of the side walls, that I realized that the partition had nothing to do with the graveyard itself. And that’s how I got my first glimpse of the Berlin Wall.

We’ve had a few other excursions since then; the Reichstag, the Berliner Dom, the area where the palace is being rebuilt, and a bus tour around the center city. All were gorgeous, all were moving, all were very similar to other such sights in Europe with little to report in the way of cultural epiphanies. More interesting to me is the trips that my roommate and I made to the store. I chose not to pack anything that I thought I could get while here: toothpaste, shampoo/conditioner, etc. This has led to some surprises. For example, while my normal brand of shampoo was readily available (with the same bottle, color, pictures, and font all displayed on the front) the shampoo is thicker and the conditioner dryer than their American counterparts, leading me to believe that they are likely much more concentrated (despite being much less expensive). There is fresh fruit available on every street, fresh vegetables is every sizable market, and boxes of crackers and candy bars and bottles of wine and beer everywhere, but I had to go to three different places to find a refrigerator (holding only juice and beer) and only one place that I’ve seen had a freezer (ice cream bars and microwave meals, both staged as though it was expected that they would be consumed almost immediately).

What really threw me, though, were the personal hygiene items, especially the toothpaste. Dentagard, at 0,75€ for a regular sized tube, was the best choice for my budget and peace of mind, having reassured me with its Colgate parent company sticker and soothing green color which I understood to imply a familiar mint flavoring. Imagine my surprise upon first use to find a wholly unappetizing combination of mint, chamomile, sage, and myrrh. Yes, myrrh. While I imagine my mother or others raised more religiously would find myrrh soothing, all I can think about is the storied history of cloaking bodies with it to cover up the stench of decay. This is what I’m putting into my mouth every day.

Those are my impressions for the first week or so. I think I might make this more of a daily thing, writing a bit each day so that I don’t miss any detail, though I’ll probably still hold off on posting until the end of the week.

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